与纽约告别于一个秋高气爽的星期天。出得门来,往东走到West End街,向右拐,往南走到85街,左拐,向东一直来到中央公园西大道。晴朗的天空下车水马龙,人们手里提着蔬菜水果,推着婴儿车,牵着狗。一个集市霸占了整条街口,一头的舞台上有乐队正热火朝天的唱着,萨克斯风手吹得脸红脖子粗,女歌手惨白的脸衬着她白亮亮的羊毛围巾,在太阳底下耸动着丰满腰肢。
进得中央公园,一切就安静下来了。从林荫钻出来,眼前是行人道,身边是慢跑者滑旱冰者骑自行车呼啸来去者。我穿过大草坪,脚步在掷飞碟者投棒球者扔橄榄球者之间画出一个个半圆弧线。我向东走,与自己的影子背道而驰,风从后面拥来,耳边飘过种种异国语言。在和风丽日里我诧异曼哈顿天气的转变,24小时前暴风骤雨和响雷还在这个城市的上空肆虐。当时在东57街和麦迪森大道的交界处,我的长裙在风中飘曳折展如黑色的火焰。而现在,在中央公园的绿荫草坪上,一切却又清澈碧蓝太平升和了。
前方是大都会博物馆。建筑群的北翼有着斜倾的玻璃墙,倒映着行人的影像,里面是包含了一汪碧水的埃及神庙。我绕到它面朝第五大道的入口,爬上它的石阶,拉开它雕花的黄铜大门,进入它鲜花盛开的大堂,朝着它的售票员挥了挥赞助公司会员证,接过一枚紫色的徽章,把它别在我的领口。
我向右拐,从上古埃及的坟墓开始,走过第一第二第三王朝,走过他们的石制利器,穿过中王朝,看到公主陪葬的赤金羚羊王冠,看到法老斑斓的镂金项坠,那上面的神主保佑他的灵魂和河山,看到Faience蓝石描花小河马,我走过新王朝,看到漆金的木乃伊棺,看到王后蓬松的假发,看到财务主管熟练的象形文字写在斑驳的水草上。然后罗马人来了,带着他们的二等文化,把他们平板的画像放在裹尸白麻上。
神庙不合时宜的关了。我只好往下走。回到中央大堂,穿过中世纪宗教画室,走过兵器阁,来到阳光明媚的美国馆。正中间的室内花园里是持弓的金色戴安娜,左边是铁芬尼彩色琉璃,右边是Frank Lloyd Wright古雅肃穆的起居室,楼上是John Singer Sargent神秘的X夫人和Mary Cassat的白衣小女孩。整个厅里充满了柔和的光。

顺着芝加哥老股票市场的铜刻扶手大理石楼梯,我上到二楼,绕过关闭整修的欧洲画廊,到Lehmann画廊去寻找我深爱的佛蜜儿。在八角形的地下室里我找到四幅,其中有那么一张“带珍珠耳坠的女孩”,但它们都比不上前些时候在大华府的National Gallery of Fine Arts里看到的那个拿着天平的女人。那是一幅小而精致的画。阳光从左上角的窗射入,在她淡淡金发上荡漾,在她白瓷的脸庞上溅开,一直淌落到她的领子上,她的头微倾,手臂前伸,小指上扬,食指上垂着一张那么细致的天平,几乎看不见那金色的托盘和吊线,难怪她是那么专注。我痴呆的站在昏暗的临时展厅里看着了她很久,心中平静。
我加快脚步绕到南边的印象派馆,看他们一屋子一屋子的莫耐、德加、马耐、梵高、瑞诺尔、塞尚、毕萨罗、高更。同样的鸢尾兰,在莫耐是融汇一体的绚丽,在梵高就是堆积凝固的疯狂。而高更,今天我第一次从他那些热带异族女人平板的褐黄色皮肤里感到了大地的平实,从他厚重的澈蓝和橘黄里看出了低沉而坚实的生命。是的他们可以是疯子和伪君子,我可以为他们的人品不齿,但是我不能否认他们作品里的美丽。
从前并不对德加的各种裸女和奔马塑像感冒,这次连着看了国家画廊和大都会之后,却喜欢上了他那些女人肥胖厚实的腿和臀,它们的生命力用各种不同的姿势顺着她们手中的毛巾身上的洗澡水潺潺不断地流淌出来,让人莫名的感动。另外我也开始喜欢上了那些蜡块的未完成状态。那种随意让人觉得就好像看着上帝塑造的泥人。
闭馆45分钟之前我匆匆走入现代馆,在Clifford Still层层渗透的色彩中闭眼休息了一会儿,接着走马观花的溜过Jackson Pollock的甩墨,Jaspter Johns的白色美国国旗,Marc Rothko颤动的色快,Roy Lichtenstein的版刻美女,Chuck Close的印刷点,看着Alexander Calder的动雕凭风而转,而Elizabeth Murray的壁雕和昨天在画廊里看到的Frank Stella有异曲同工之妙。在Mark Tansey的"The Innocent Eye Test"前我驻足微笑。那头牛像个十足的麻风病人,但相比之下还是比没有瞳孔的科学家来得实在。
Lichtenstein's Galatea and Painting
闭馆时间提前来到,我却刚刚来到毕加索展厅。在管理员啧啧的驱赶声和埋怨的眼神里我恋恋不舍的一步一拖,最后还是被迫放弃了大部分超现实主义和立体派。
出了馆来正是夕阳大好。我顺着一天最后的余温再次穿过中央公园。

在金黄的阳光下,人们在翠绿的草坪上嬉戏玩耍,婴儿车随随便便的停着,在地上拉出斜斜的影子。

有人在放风筝,有人在入神的看别人放风筝。

而林子里的树木自顾自的沐浴在夕阳下。
回到85街上我想,原来我从曼哈顿一千个不同的面目中挑出了一个镀金的影像出来。我对街道旁小山似的黑塑料垃圾袋里蹒跚捡拾的炭色老人视若无睹,却把眼光心思都放在了林立街道两旁的雕花石屋和艺术殿堂里高高在上的色块上。
我的世界永远不切实际。
今晚的腐败计划没有成行,乖乖在家呆着。洗衣服,收拾东西,翻出来一张小纸条,是在惠特尼博物馆做的笔记。想不出别的地方存放,就放在这儿吧。
Stanton MacDonald-Wright "Blue Symphony"
一幅很Kandinsky的画,姑且叫它立体色彩派。很柔和的颜色,蓝绿粉紫混合在一起。
Reginald Marsh "20 Cent Movie"
昨天还跟玛塞儿问起这个画家。据她说是Ashkanz学派的一员,插图家,正宗大白佬,却喜欢跑去体验低层人民生活。主题有妓院,酒吧,杂技团,煤矿,等等。看上去像素描,人物表情极其丰富,灯红酒绿饥饿贫穷堕落痛苦无不淋漓尽致。
Thomas Hart Benton Murals
几幅大型壁画,内容概括美国各个地区的生活,从好莱芜到南部黑人聚会,构成一个大型交响乐,里面却总是有那么一丝杂音,一点不和谐,宛如生活。
Benton Murdoch Spruance Lithographs
石板画。具体模样记不太清了。
晚上吃了酒,心一直跳得很慌。回家前在街上慢慢走了一个小时,现在还是微醺。老啦。要灌醉我算是越来越便宜了。
跟阿瑞讲电话。他说,真盼望你回来呀!我无言以对,只是嘎嘎叫了两声。于是他不高兴。
有时候,要忠于自己,就必须伤害别人。这是我近年来历尽千辛万苦学到的一个道理。
这世道,没法活了。
既然不是所有人都能同时舒服,那么是让我舒服呢,还是你舒服。这个问题,有待考虑。
今天是实习最后一天。在最后的三个小时内,我从别人的程序里找出了一条大虫子。其严重性还不知道。有可能使我们过去半个月的实验结果完全作废。搞科学,就是这么无常。md。
警告:下面是给自己备忘的流水帐。不慎看了别喊冤。
这个礼拜的告别腐败计划是这样组织的:
星期三晚:请恩格夫妇去Ouest法国餐馆吃饭。前菜是salmon gravlax+鱼子酱,主菜要了烧兔子加土豆疙瘩(gnocchi)加时菜。恩格夫人要了endive salad和烤平鱼加土豆泥,恩格先生要了生切嫩羊肉(charred lamb carpaccio),主菜炖小排骨。甜点是“激情果”奶乳(panna cotta with passion fruit sauce)。吃得不错,不是出乎意料的好,也不是难以下咽的差。主要的还是人。席间大家的热情里都有些伤感。不过恩格先生以一贯出众的表现搞笑,在我们都怀疑怎么星期三晚上还有这么多人装模作样的吃法国大餐的前提下,大声问女招待是不是正在挣扎奋斗的演员,住在哪里。然后夫妇两人讨论了一下她不正规的法语口音,最后定论是准是迷你苏打州来的土包子。
星期四晚:约了一大帮哥伦比亚的前实习生去腐败。在学校前面的餐馆Radio Perfecto里订了一长条桌子。浩浩荡荡坐了一排人。吃了海鲜面(black linguini with sauteed shrimp and mussels)。我看着周围的这些人,知道过了今晚这里的某些人就永远不会再见了。笑得很开心。不哭。不哭。面条很新鲜。我们都研究他们是怎么把它弄成黑色的。我说,是章鱼的汁水!他们就笑,说是章鱼的墨水吧。呵呵。
星期五晚:先与屏绘的前老板以及太太吃了酒。约在cafe des artistes,在W 67th上的一家公寓楼里。装饰古典,墙上居然有绅士小姐类的壁画。飓风来袭前夕,空气异常闷热。我满身大汗的进得来,目不斜视的向厕所奔,结果走了一半发现David及夫人正有些尴尬的在旁边向我招手。急忙裂开嘴笑。放下包,然后奔厕所整理半露酥胸。汗。。。
喝了两杯长生泉(fountain of youth),其实是香槟加梨。晕晕乎乎的大扯人工智能和人工生命的区别。跟文科生说话真是爽啊~概念都不一样。我连Godel's incompleteness theorem都搬出来了。搔了半天头皮,给了一个半知不解的概括,他们居然使劲点头,说,我们应该把你飞到巴黎去见某某哲学家朋友。大乐。说说也是好的。
晚餐在一家北欧餐馆与其他两位残兵败将实习生一起吃。端上来一盘子各式熏鱼,每样两小片。味道奇特,很值得一试。主菜要了快火煎鱼,平平。
明天后天打算到大都市博物馆和几个画廊流连一番。星期六与另一批残兵败将一起吃。星期天或许再与大卫和玛塞儿碰头。星期一收拾铺盖,晚上六时潜逃。
我披上毛衣下了楼,走出大门口,路灯把卷着黄边的叶子照得惨绿。诺大的街上空无一人。我沿着规整的路往南走,两边尽是高高耸立的褐石公寓,窗户上吊着空调,屋檐下刻着浮雕。每一个大堂都灯火通明,油光锃亮,每一个大堂里都有一个孤独的守夜人,几条饱满的候客沙发,一面刺眼的镜子。
一切都那么不真实。既然是黑夜,为什么我还能看到亮光?
我皱着眉头往南走,并不知道自己在想什么感觉什么。这一刻我柔软得像一只透明的水母,一团神经,自顾自的往前漂。我心里空空如也,一片树叶就能把我击垮。我的坚强呢?我的冷漠呢?我的玩世不恭呢?呵原来我并不懂得如何使自己快乐,如何使自己充实,如何积极向上,如何生活。
在一幢有着圆柱角楼的公寓前我驻足仰望。没有什么照片能够表达那一刻它轰然而起的壮大。天上居然有星。两幢楼之间一阵风吹来,带来某种化合香气。我看着窗户上的浮雕,摇摇欲坠。
你走了,我不知如何是好。
!!!气愤啊。我正在这边热火朝天的赶着把学术文章写完投递出去,却刚接到消息说时限被延长了!一直到27号。我的天哪!
我恨!我恨!我恨恨恨!!!!!
再要我跑那么长时间我得累死。走都走不动。
现在无所适从了。
Today I sat for an hour and a half in stand-still Manhattan traffic,
trying to return a car to a friend. I was already exhausted from
consistent all-nighters trying to get this paper out. I sat in the
stiffling car, suffering from the most vicious case of collective road
rage. I imagined myself getting out, leaving the keys in the car,
slamming the door shut, and spitting emphatically on the pavement
before walking off.
But I didn't.
I sat it out and met up with the friend and then I refused a ride back
and opted instead to walk across town. Another minute in the car would
have pushed me over the edge. I was ready to burn and pillage.
I took a leisurely stroll northwards on 3rd Ave, through a bustling
street fair that was the cause of my misfortune earlier. On the way I
stopped by a puppet show with three women dressed entirely in black,
weilding a delicate Japanese artisan puppet, a red lantern, and a blue
paper umbrella. She was the Moon Soul, they explained, but became
infactuated with the sun, who eventually left her, alone and having
forsaken her own destiny.
Very well, I said, and walked on. At 72nd Street I turned left, heading
across town. It's a wonderful day to be out. The temperature is just
right and the wind easy and cool. Everybody was out on the streets.
I walked through Central Park looking for Strawberry Field, that tourist
spot that is supposed to commemorate John Lennon's death. It's supposedly
right across the street from the apartment building in front of which he
was shot. What a horrible fate. What a horrible fate for Yoko Ono,
even though she's vehemently hated for having broken up the band. Her
and her worthless art.
But I remember that picture by Richard Avedon (was it?) of John and Yoko,
naked on the bed, she lying facing up, with an expression of the utmost
joy, her hair spread out like a fan, her husband balled up like a baby
next to her, eyes closed, hugging.
I found the famed circle with the words "imagine" in the center. People
have decorated it with fresh roses scattered in the shape of the peace
sign. People are taking pictures. A group of middle aged hippies not
far away are playing guitars and softly singing Beatles songs. They
were pretty good.
I walked away singing as well. "Imagine all the people, living life in
peace. ... You might say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one."
A peace activist, a lover, shot to death in an act of meaningless
violence. Yes yes, we all know, that's called irony.
I took the subway home. I saw the people in their poses, their expressions,
their relationship to their surroundings. How happy I was that I wasn't
a photographer. I can live life as opposed to merely observe it.
There were lots of people out on the streets. I already said that.
There were also lots of babies. A good day to take the new born
for a stroll, why not. It is while looking at these twins in their
carts that it struck me. They were the most harmless and fluffy soft
piles of flesh, utterly incapable of surviving in this world on their
own. Oh but they're protected. Protected by their nylon push cart
with wheels, by their mom and dad, by this society and their rules and
regulations.
We do well to protect our defenseless young. We, as a species, have done
so well to populate this earth. Everywhere we look there is humans in all
shapes and sizes, covered by colors, materials, products, armed to the
teeth with accessories and gadgets. We are the rulers of this earth.
We subjugate all other forms of life. Dogs on chains, cats in cages,
pidgeons on the street under the wheels of cars, trees and flowers pruned
and placed in rows. We live our life struggling against chaos, imposing
our order on everything around us, putting up our concrete slabs and our
wrought iron fences, hemming in the edges of this island, planning with
our pencils and rulers the north west east south of it all.
And what gave us the right to do this? Evolution? The strong survives?
Make no mistake, we are here because our ancestors were the most cunning,
the most vicious, the most unscrupulous and the most selfish. We killed
off the Neanderthals who were supposedly a peace loving tribe. And just
as surely as the sun rises, we will continue to suppress, to tame, to
beat into submission all the rest of the species, races, colors, and creed.
We survive because of our inherent evil.
We seek permanence for this empire. But alas permanence flows
south as surely as the traffic. One day we, too, will be history.
(Surely, we don't imagine ourselves the culmination of this glorious
process of evolution?) I hope whoever inherits this world will be
better than those who have come before.
%%%%%%%%%%%%
Heh, just read this again. What a crock of teenage angst shit.
Whatever. Post it on the web. Hang it from a stake for the world to see.
"Beware: this is the result of sleep deprivation and thinking."
实验进展不错,今天得闲出去逛,反正干活已经干得头晕眼花,在家里呆着也不会有什么进展。于是用新开发出来的秘密产品把头发精心整成了乱糟糟的鸟窝,跑到 Soho 去对着亮晶晶的橱窗流口水。
溜进一家画廊观赏,好东西可真不少,不好的东西也不少。价钱是不敢问的。等以后富得冒油的时候自可去买几件东西回来;或者等以后穷的喝西北风的时候自己做也未必不可。
在街边小摊上看中了一幅轻飘飘大羽毛耳环,拣出两张钞票换了来,立刻带上。于是头发也乱耳环也乱的开始走。走到一家尼泊尔首饰店,里面好东西无数,统统贵得要死。一幅大吊扇耳环,红珊瑚小珠子配月牙型湛蓝天青石,95美刀!!!一件上好细毛锦织对襟外套,700美刀!!!试东西时店主说我刚买的耳环是孔雀翎做的,半信半疑,不过还是捡了便宜似的欢喜。其实是塑料的我也带了。
西班牙男高音从加州客串小工返来,被女朋友甩了。来吃晚餐顺便洗衣服,沮丧之情显而可见,连高音都低了两节,颇令人不忍。感情这件事,唉~~~,真不好说。说不定哪天就轮到你哭了。

一个礼拜来还算勤奋。学术会议文章的递交期限眼看就要到了,于是终于开始每天努力刻苦的工作。办公室里其他的实习生都走了,回到家里恩格夫妇也因纽约召开全国共和党大会而躲进深山老林里度假避难去了。于是整日自己一个人。第一天还微微有些伤感,后来渐渐沉浸也就不顾了。照常开工,在茶馆msn上与网友有一搭没一搭的聊天,时而郁闷,时而被逗得哈哈大笑。
今天天气忒好,冰箱里空空如也,于是改头换面出去吃饭。洗脸,去皮肤屑,摸收敛水,涂防晒油,除腋毛,修眉毛,忘了刮腿毛于是穿上粉色吊带翻花丝绸裙走在暖暖的太阳下,腿毛参差--看似整洁,实则勒特。
在纽约的街上实在是能拣到很多好东西。恩格先生每早出去晨跑,锻炼倒是其次,零钱可是能拣到不少。他在街道中央顺着车门一溜跑下来,眼观地,大小不拒,每年收获总能有百八十快钱。上个月还得意洋洋的给我展示了一张簇新的五十块美钞。我看得眼睛都直了。只有在纽约啊~~~~~~~~
每逢垃圾日,我们这条街道上,除了人们扔出来的半新家具灯罩杂志浴帘滑雪板,还时不时的有老鼠,噌噌地从眼前蹿过。我遇见了好几次,习以为常,恩格夫妇在这里居住了三十年却从未见过,听我说了都很诧异。
昨晚干活至凌晨四点,今早起来却发现辛苦设立的试验抛锚了。气不过,跑到一家马来西亚饭馆里去吃午餐。侍者相互间说国语。要了咖喱酥饼和菠萝鸡,独自坐着,眼睛酸涩,按摩着因过度打字而僵硬的手臂,想着怎么找虫子,发誓一定要注意坐姿,保护手腕神经。